How to Tie (Lace) Dress Shoelaces in an Underlap Style [With Video!]

Have you ever tried "Underlap" lacing for your dress shoes?

Many people are familiar with the standard Overlap method, but fewer have tried Underlap. Compared to its counterpart, Underlap lacing offers a more relaxed fit and is easier to loosen.

This guide, complete with a video, will show you exactly how to do it. We've also included photos of Underlap lacing on five different types of dress shoes to use as a reference.

How to Tie (Lace) Dress Shoelaces in an Underlap Style

A Look at Underlap Lacing on Different Shoe Styles

Jalan Sriwijaya Straight-Tip

I can't say it's a great visual match for black straight-tips. Single or Parallel lacing is recommended here.

Loake Wingtip

While it looks less out of place than on the black straight-tips, it's still not a great match. It seems it doesn't quite suit Oxfords (balmorals).

Raymar U-Tip Derby

U-Tip Derbys are versatile and work well with any lacing method: Single, Parallel, Overlap, or Underlap.

Therefore, you can choose based on your outfit: Single or Parallel for dressier looks, and Overlap or Underlap for more casual styles.

Wheel Robe Straight-Tip Derby

While Overlap lacing is common for American-style derbys with exterior eyelets, Underlap doesn't look out of place either.

Underlap lacing provides a more relaxed fit and is easier to loosen, so if you're concerned about pressure on your instep or find taking them on and off to be a hassle, switching to Underlap is a good idea.

Soffice & Solid Plain-Toe Derby

Underlap lacing is a great fit for 3-eyelet derbys. Since every lace passes through from underneath, I think it's a good match for shoes with fewer eyelets.

For comparison, here is how Overlap looks on the same shoe.

How to Lace in the Underlap Style

Features of Underlap Lacing

• Casual impression
• More relaxed fit than Overlap
• Easier to loosen than Overlap

If you currently use Overlap lacing and are bothered by tightness on your instep, or find them difficult to loosen, try switching to Underlap.

Key Points for Underlap Lacing

• Thread the laces from underneath the eyelets.
• For a clean look, consistently cross the lace going towards the outside of the shoe over the other.

Step-by-Step Lacing Guide

Please watch the video as well.

This is what it looks like when finished. Let's go through the steps in detail.

1: Thread the lace through A1 and B1 from underneath.
2: Make sure the left and right sides of the lace are the same length.

3: Thread the lace from A1 to B2 from underneath.
4: Thread the lace from B1 to A2 from underneath. Repeat steps 3-4.

5: Thread the lace from A2 to B3 from underneath.
6: Thread the lace from B2 to A3 from underneath.

7: Thread the lace from A3 to B4 from underneath.
8: Thread the lace from B3 to A4 from underneath.

9: Thread the lace from A4 to B5 from underneath.
10: Thread the lace from B4 to A5 from underneath.

11: Adjust the lengths, tie a knot, and you're done.

How to Loosen the Underlap Lace

Loosen one row at a time from the top.

1: Pull on the 4th row of laces. (This will pull on the 5th row.)
2: Pull on the 3rd row of laces. (This will pull on the 4th row.)

3: Pull on the 2nd row of laces. (This will pull on the 3rd row.)
4: Finally, pull the quarters apart to loosen the entire lacing.

How to Tighten the Underlap Lace for Wearing

1: Pull on the 2nd row of laces. (This tightens the 1st row.)
2: Pull on the 3rd row of laces. (This tightens the 2nd row.)

3: Pull on the 4th row of laces. (This tightens the 3rd row.)
4: Finally, pull on the laces at the very top to tighten the entire lacing.

Finally: The Shoelaces Used for This Underlap Lacing Guide

We used the "Thin Glossy Waxed Cotton Round Shoelaces 2/25″(2.2mm)" in Bordeaux from MONDSHOELACE.

You can custom-order from a wide variety of shoelace types, aglet colors, and lengths.

Purchase "Thin Glossy Waxed Cotton Round Shoelaces 2/25″(2.2mm)" from MONDSHOELACE

For other lacing methods, please see these articles.

[With Videos!] A Guide to Lacing and Tying Dress Shoelaces

How to Tie (Lace) Dress Shoelaces in an Overlap Style [With Video!]

How to Lace Your Shoes to Relieve Instep Pain [Solving Localized Pain!]